It’s Indian, sort of, but it’s also a tropical place, with all the influences that climate implies — coconut, banana, fish. It was a focal point for colonizers such as the Portuguese — Portugal a melting pot unto itself — but also the Dutch and British, who came to pillage the verdant coasts. Here too are the influences of the coastal region of India, a major spice trading center, and an important agricultural hub for rice growers. Arab traders also started taking trips through there starting in the 7th century, some of them even sticking around for love and making babies with the locals, so there are some Muslims, though mostly Buddhists and Hindus.

Maybe within the context of all this cultural circuitousness it seems fitting that two former 7-11 managers have made their way to Minnesota, by way of California, but first from Sri Lanka, and put down roots in Rosemount, on advice from their best friend the Buddhist monk who told them how nice our people are.

Vini Dissanayake and his wife Aruni Mahagamade have a six-year-old daughter, and they wanted to raise her among Minnesotans. Smart folks. Talented folks. Mahagamade was a home cook with formidable skills, and their friends were always pestering the two of them to open a restaurant. So they thought: Why not here? Why not now?

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House of Curry: 3420 150th St. W., Rosemount; 651-344-7744; houseofcurrymn.com

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One of the best examples of the tempered restraint we enjoyed was an offbeat appetizer of spicy cauliflower. The crunchy, lightly fried vegetable florets were swaddled in a wonderful piquant glaze that built by the bite to a sublime intensity. A similar symphony of flavors was found in the chili shrimp, which took it even higher with a garnish of chopped leeks, cilantro, onion, and a squeeze of lemon.

Though we barely made a dent in the menu, there were numerous other items that we would enthusiastically order again. The devilled lamb—an indigenous stew of lean sautéed meat, tomatoes, bell peppers, and Sri Lankan herbs sided with rice—reminded me of a Chinese sweet-and-sour stir-fry. The oddly named “string hoppers,” apparently a Sri Lankan breakfast staple, involved patties of translucent steamed rice noodles, which served as a base to a choice of protein and a delicious coconut curry sauce spooned over the top. A third standout was the simple but elegant dhal curry, a bowl of creamy lentils simmered in a coconut curry sauce and accompanied by a side of fluffy flour-based roti. The same flatbread is fried and shredded to add crunchy texture to a Sri Lankan street dish called kottu roti, which included sautéed vegetables, eggs, and chicken or lamb. This dish is best with a few spoons of the coconut curry condiment, plus some sprinkles of fried coconut sambol. About the only item that drew any meaningful criticism was the pol roti: puck-size rounds of fried coconut flatbread topped with tasty bits of tamarind-spiced tuna and a jammy onion chutney. We thought the thick, dense flatbread dominated the other components.

When we visited, business was light and the service couldn’t have been more attentive and helpful. The restaurant doesn’t take reservations, so we dined at an early hour and benefited from the light streaming in the windows off the bright-colored walls. 3420 W. 150th St., Rosemount, 651-344-7744,houseofcurrymn.com

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The House of Curry hasn’t been open long but it’s already got some fans. In fact as one customer left lunch late last week he couldn’t help but gush.

Particularly of note, in contrast to so many restaurants serving dishes from this part of the world, the greasiness quotient here was almost nonexistent. Toss in a staff that is as personable and patient as can be, a decent wine and beer selection, and an adventuresome group of friends, and this outing wins top honors. 3420 150th St., #119, Rosemount, 651-344-7744, houseofcurrymn.com

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