If it weren’t for the location, House of Curry in Rosemount would probably have a line out the door all week. The Sri Lankan cuisine featured at this strip-mall storefront is as nuanced, complex, and multi-dimensional as any you’d find cityside. Make the drive and you will be rewarded with one surprising great dish after another—lightly fried cauliflower florets swaddled in a chili glaze, a superlative bowl of luscious creamy dahl simmered in a coconut curry sauce, sweet ’n’ sour tempered deviled lamb incorporating lean cubes of meat with tomatoes and bell peppers, and an indigenous rice noodle dish known as “string hoppers” topped with a knock-out coconut curry sauce.

Particularly of note, in contrast to so many restaurants serving dishes from this part of the world, the greasiness quotient here was almost nonexistent. Toss in a staff that is as personable and patient as can be, a decent wine and beer selection, and an adventuresome group of friends, and this outing wins top honors. 3420 150th St., #119, Rosemount, 651-344-7744, houseofcurrymn.com

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